IKEA Alex Desk Hack

The IKEA Alex Nightstand is a versatile and practical piece of furniture, but with a few simple additions, you can take its aesthetic appeal from fine and functional to upscale for a fraction of the cost of custom cabinetry! In this post, I'll take you through a step by step process on the exact hacks I used on my IKEA Alex desk. Get ready to transform a basic piece into a stylish statement!

Materials Needed:

1. 2- IKEA Alex Nightstand

2. 1- IKEA Lagkapten table top (I chose the 63-inch option for a more spacious working area, but you can also select from 47, 55, and 78 inches, catering to your space and personal preference.)

3. Trim (I used 1/4 inch by 1-1/8 inch pine lattice molding)

4. Measuring tape

5. Miter saw or miter box with hand saw or miter shears

6. Liquid Nails Glue

7. Clamps

8. 120 & 220 Grit Sandpaper

9. Wood filler

10. Paintbrush and Roller

11. Shellac based Primer

12. Paint (Satin or semi-gloss finishes are best for durability and easy cleaning)

13. Sealant

14. Drawer Pulls (Here are the exact ones I used)

15. Caulk (optional)

16. Wall Paper (optional)

Step 1: Assembly - Begin by assembling the IKEA drawers following the provided instructions before proceeding. If you intend to line the drawers with wallpaper, complete the drawer assembly up to installing the last/back piece. You essentially want to have the drawers stable enough for you to work, yet still be able to slide the bottom of the drawer out later to apply the wallpaper.

Step 2:  Measure and Plan - Start by measuring the dimensions of each drawer front on your IKEA Alex Nightstand. The unit I purchased had 2 difference drawer sizes, so the width was the same for all the pieces, but I had two difference heights for the smaller side pieces. I chose to use 1/4 inch by 1-1/8 inch pine lattice molding from Home Depot. This specific trim size effectively covered the openings on the top of the drawer, and protruded slightly around the face, providing the desired look I was going for.

Tip* Double check that all your trim pieces are the same size. It may seem silly, but during my store visit, the trim section was a bit disorganized. It wasn't until I began cutting pieces that I noticed one of them was slightly thicker and a different size. Additionally, avoid selecting pieces with noticeable bowing. Consider purchasing a few extra feet of trim, to account for variations caused by the saw blade and potential mistakes or unusable pieces. I needed a little over 30 ft. and purchased 34 ft. of trim.

Step 3: Cut the Trim - Using a miter saw or a miter box with a handsaw, carefully cut the trim at a 45 degree angle to match the measurements you took. When cutting trim with a miter saw, remember that "kerf" is the width of material removed by the blade (in simpler terms- it's the width of the saw blade.) To account for it, add the kerf width to your measured length, I added 1/8th of an inch to all of my pieces. Example: The drawer is 12 3/4 in. wide so I marked my pieces at 12 7/8 in.

Tip* I initially purchased a hand saw with miter box to cut my trim...while it is doable, I might still be cutting trim pieces rather than writing this blog post if I continued that route. Fortunately, my future father-in-law has a miter saw and was more than happy to show me how to safely and properly use it. I've also seen people use miter shears, but have not personally tried them.

Step 4: Sand and Prep the Trim - Smooth any rough edges of the cut trim using sandpaper. This step ensures a clean and polished finish once the trim is attached. I'd recommend using a 120 grit sanding block or sanding paper here. The goal is to eliminate any roughness without overly smoothing the edges that they start to round or you lose that 45 degree angle.

Tip* Before glueing down the trim, I went ahead gave all the drawer faces a good "scuff sand"using a 120 grit sanding block. This step removes that sheen and helps to ensure that your primer and paint will adhere.

Step 5: Apply Wood Glue - Run a thin line of glue along the backside of the trim or around the edge of the drawer. Carefully position the trim around the perimeter of each drawer front, pressing it firmly into place. Use clamps to hold the trim in position until the glue is completely dried. To ensure smooth opening and closing of the drawers, it's essential for the trim to be flush with the edges without overhanging.

Tip* If you don't have clamps, you can also use painter's tape to secure them . I used the clamps to hold down the pieces that had some bowing in them since they didn't lay 100% flat and tape to hold the other pieces.

Step 6: Fill and Sand - Inspect the joints and corners for any gaps. Use wood filler to fill in any imperfections. Once dry, sand the entire surface for a smooth finish. I did repeat this process twice since wood filler can shrink while drying and I didn't want there to be any noticeable gaps.

Tip* I also decided to run a bead of caulk around the inside of the trim and around the edges to fill in any additional gaps between the drawer face and trim. (If you haven't noticed by now I can be a bit of a perfectionist, because in the words of my father "If you're going to take the time to do something, then do it right."

Step 7: Apply Primer - Since I already sanded the drawers earlier, now it's prime time! Priming is probably the most important step for achieving a durable and long-lasting finish. You need to use a shellac based primer in order for the paint to adhere. I used Zinsser B.I.N. Primer, it works amazingly. I first used a brush to get the inside edges and then used a small roller to blend out any brush marks and drips around the edges. I recommend doing two coats of primer. Depending on the temperature, it dries fairly quickly so you don't have to wait too long to recoat.

Step 8: Apply Paint - Stir the paint thoroughly before application. I wanted a nice neutral beige color and used Behr Burnished Clay. Repeating the same process you used for priming, start by applying the paint with a brush to the inside edges of the trim and then use a your roller to blend out the paint evenly. Depending on the color and coverage, multiple coats may be necessary. I recommend doing at least two coats, depending on your paint a third might be necessary. Be patient and allow each coat to dry to the recommended amount of time, before applying the next coat.

Tip* Use your 220 grit sanding block to very gently sand in between coats of paint. This is what will help to give your piece that super smooth finish.

Step 9: Protect Your Piece - While this step is optional, it offers an added layer of protection to your furniture. I conducted a comparative test on my desk and bookcase to assess the benefits of sealing versus not sealing. I'll sum up my findings by saying "Just seal the damn thing!" You've already spent this long doing everything else, what's another 48 hours at this point. For sealing, I used a water-based Polyurethane on my desk. I opted for this over Polycrylic due to the size and color of the furniture. Working with the water-based Polyurethane proved to be incredibly easy. I used a paintbrush instead of a roller to prevent the formation of bubbles. I did a total of 3 coats and so far have not had any issues.

Tip* Stir, do not shake your sealant! Shaking introduces air bubbles and will lead to an uneven finish.

Step 10: Line Drawers - While you're waiting for everything to dry, now is the perfect time to line your drawers. Start by carefully sliding the bottom panels from your drawers. (Don't do this while your item is wet, remove them before starting or applying the next coat.) The wallpaper I chose was wider than my drawers, so simply peel off the backing and carefully stick the wallpaper to the bottom of the drawer. Smooth out any wrinkles using a putty knife. Fold the excess over the edges, like you're wrapping a present and trim with scissors.

Tip* If you get any air bubbles, use a small needle to poke a tiny hole in the bubble and gently smooth it out.

Step 11: Reassemble - Once everything is completely dry and you're satisfied with the results, reassemble the furniture and attach any hardware. Here are my results!

Update 7/29/2024

I've been using my desk for about 6 months now and can happily report that it is holding up extremely well. I have not had any scratches or chips and it's been super easy to keep clean. Definitely recommend sealing your furniture piece! I decided to rearrange my office space and included updated pictures below!

Thanks for reading! If you plan on trying this yourself, be sure to save this post to Pinterest so you can refer back to it later!